
(Photo: Brad Kaminski)
Smart trainers have been all the rage in the indoor cycling world for the past few years. While some smart trainer companies have been around since as early as 2010, the technological capabilities and athletic benefits of these savvy bike trainers have skyrocketed in recent years thanks to virtual training platforms like Zwift and TrainerRoad.
Just like with any newfangled technology, understanding how to set up a smart trainer for the first time can often result in way too many expletives, some hair pulling, and swearing off indoor riding altogether. Let’s alleviate that pain preemptively by taking a look at how to set up a smart trainer and successfully execute your first smart trainer ride.
A smart trainer is a bike trainer that has connective and electrical capabilities. A smart trainer:
“Wheel off” technology means the trainer has a cassette built into its design, inviting you to remove your back wheel and allowing you to set up your chain directly on the smart trainer. This can lead to more accurate metric readings, a more stable platform, and a better overall indoor riding experience, but it can be a hassle if you’re moving from trainer to road riding multiple days a week (and it’s often pricier).
A traditional bike trainer:
While these trainers are less expensive and can be beneficial for travel, a good back-up trainer, or for grinding it out old-school, the wheel-on resistance roller sets up faster if you use it sporadically, but it can burn out your tires quickly.
Some folks may even own a separate “trainer wheel” if they stick with a traditional bike trainer. This prevents your road tires from burning out too quickly. Others may use a trainer with “rollers,” cylindrical drums on which you balance your wheels and ride. Rollers, which are also non-electric, often require a good bit of balance and are recommended mostly for road bikes—though a triathlete who masters the rollers has done themselves a huge favor!
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Once you’ve committed to the smart trainer way of life, it’s time to prepare your pain cave for hundreds of miles of virtual riding.
As you pick a spot for your new gadget to call home, first ensure these two critical things:
In rare cases, conflicting Bluetooth signals can cause connectivity difficulties with the smart trainer.
If you use Garmin products, you’ll likely connect to your trainer using Garmin’s ANT+ method. To “communicate” with a computer using ANT+ connectivity, you’ll need to pick up an ANT+ dongle for a few bucks.
If you’re using a wheel-off trainer, just be sure you’re using a cassette that has the same number of speeds as your bike (count the rear cogs)—but even then you may still need to readjust your rear derailleur.
Of course, if you’re rocking a wheel-on smart trainer, no need to worry about cassette switching or measuring. Just change out the skewer, align the wheel, and hop on!
Speaking of skewers, if your bike has a thru axle and not a quick release skewer, you should pick up a thru axle adapter before starting your first ride. Checking if you have a thru axle or quick release is simple:
Grabbing a thru axle adapter is quick and easy (and often comes with the trainer itself) and is needed whether your smart trainer is wheel-off or wheel-on. They’re relatively cheap, and are one of the finishing touches to getting your bike smart-trainer ready.
You’ve got your connectivity ready. Your electrical cord is plugged in (and out of the way!). Thru-axle adapter? Got it. You’re ready.
But…“where” to ride (virtually)? Fortunately, there is a smattering of virtual riding platforms to join. For many of these, if you have a smart trainer with feedback (FE-C), you’ll get more resistance going uphill and less resistance when virtually riding down:
Whichever one you choose, there is one thing we forgot to mention… you’ll need a towel. Maybe two. And a fan. Because you’re gonna sweat a lot.